Peregrine

Keel

2011-09-19T09:59:00.000-05:00

First pic of the keel and bulb plug.

Progress Photos

2011-09-06T13:20:00.000-05:00

She's not as done as she looks, but its progress!!!

I still have to finish the internal supports, stringers, bunks, etc.

FINALLY Back to Work!

2011-06-20T21:16:00.001-05:00

Just a little bit of work tonight...

A little cockpit trim routing, laminating, prepping the bulb box for the concrete pour, and getting the bulb plug ready to coat with fairing mix.

Obvious thought of the day...tyvek suits don't breathe.

The i550 Class

2011-04-28T12:42:00.002-05:00

There have been some fractions in the i550 world and while I wish everyone luck, I think the group that seems to track my feelings of the development of the boat close to mine it the i550 Class group.

I think this is primarily because these builders, while being innovative and creative, in my opinion, seem to be attempting to build the boat as it was originally designed. Since I am hull #030 and started building SOOOOOO long ago, I have already committed to the original design and haven't had the benefit of considering all these changes before I built.

That being said, I still like the original design and plan of the boat and would build it as originally drawn anyway.

For those of you interested, please find the class site here: http://www.i550class.org/

And just a note for all those other i550 folks who have decided another direction, i hope you guys the best of luck. While we each have a different vision of the boat and our experience with it, we all are cast of the same mold of wanting to have the experience of building and sailing one hell of a fun boat!!!

Been busy but a boat working weekend is coming up!!!

2011-03-30T14:06:00.000-05:00

Deck Layout

2011-02-11T14:48:00.003-06:00

I really dig the simplicity of this layout and think this is the way I am going to go. I will probably change the jib tracks to a more inboard/outboard orientation and of course, I will have a articulating bowsprit, which will add control lines on either side of the deck.

(http://www.sailinganarchy.com/article.php?get=6891)

I also think I am going to use the same lifeline set up as used in this image and on the Melges 20.

Cabin Top

2011-02-11T08:52:00.004-06:00

Well, I finally got to filleting and taping the inside of the cabin top. Now that is set, I flipped it and cut the excess off the top.

These pics are a bit dark, but I have cut the port side and left the starboard side to show the contrast.

I'll get some pics of the fully trimmed cabin top this weekend as I fair it and get it ready for taping the external seams.

Starboard Side Deck On!

2011-02-06T09:44:00.001-06:00

Only port side deck to go!

Cleats for Cockpit Support Stringer

2011-01-31T19:14:00.003-06:00

I made these little bits to help mount the 1x2 cockpit support stringers.

Cockpit Update Pics

2011-01-31T18:44:00.003-06:00

Cabin Top

2011-01-31T18:06:00.004-06:00

Ok, so everyone seems to be doing a little something different for the cabin top. Here is what I am doing.

I started with bending the 2 center ply pieces to where they should be, but I couldnt get the side pieces to fit, they were too long, sooooo I decided to cut them.

I am going to fillet and tape everything in place and then trim the side pieces to fit.

More Cockpit Decking...

2011-01-19T10:54:00.002-06:00

Interior Cockpit Deck Transition

2011-01-19T10:30:00.004-06:00

There are many ways to skin a cat, or a deck. I have decided to utilize the same basic idea I used on my gunwales to transition the deck from horizontal to vertical in the cockpit.

As you can see I used stock 1x2 for support beams under the cockpit decking...

After cutting and fitting the top deck pieces, I then used the opposite side decking as a router guide...

After routing the void...

I can install the piece of 1/4 round trim to create the smooth transition...

It seems to work well.

There are a few issues...

1. Dumb ass me forgot to consider the 1/4" for the internal cockpit side piece and routed too far in. Not a huge issue and can be easily corrected with a little thickened epoxy (which would have to be used to laminate the pieces and gap fill anyway); and,

2. The angle of the supports is too vertical and wont lay flush against the internal cockpit side piece (or against the horizontal deck piece for that matter either). The interior angle of the deck it great than the 90degree piece of stock. When I flip the cockpit as one piece (after I have taped and filleted the top side, laying down a piece of plastic under the cockpit, being careful not to laminate it to the bulkheads) I will use thickened epoxy to fill the gaps. Shouldn't be a problem.

Cabin Top

2011-01-19T07:56:00.004-06:00

As some of you know I tried to put together the cabin top once before, but had problems, so I disassembled it and put it aside for another day. Well, last week that "other day" came.

SO, I stitched the cabin top together, stood back and looked at it. Hmmm. Something didnt look right. So, I made a few adjustments and stood back again. WTH?

THEN, I figured it out....I am building a long cockpit version and CLEARLY, Watershed had sent me a SHORT cockpit cabin!!!

As you can see, I have the cabin lined up with frame 110 and it protrudes WAY too far forward.

I contact Tim at Watershed, but received a form email in response.

Soooo...I had no choice but to take things into my own hands and just cut the SOB down. (Which, in reality makes no difference as the "cut down" cabin top appears to be be just fine with a slight gap between the top of 89.5 and the cabin top. Not sure if this is a difference exists in the long cockpit version cabin top or not.)

Here is the cut down cabin fit into place...

I will take a more wide view picture to show the difference. But, as you can see from the pic, the deck is starting to come into shape too!

Port cockpit deck top being fitted

2011-01-06T13:44:00.002-06:00

I'm tired of looking at the inside...

2011-01-06T09:27:00.004-06:00

so we decided to cut and dry fit the deck. Here's step one...

I am planning on using the same concept of utilizing quarter rounds (wood trim pieces) for the transition from deck down into the cockpit. I will post pics soon.

Holes, holes and more holes...

2011-01-03T14:40:00.001-06:00

I spent all day Sunday drilling lightening holes in the stock pieces I am using to support and reinforce in an attempt to cut weight and retain strength. So far so good.

I also started laminating some of the pieces in place. I will post pics later.

More stringers and update pic

2010-12-28T09:25:00.003-06:00

I am working my way aft putting in stringers...

I am going to get them in place and try and bond them in batches.

Also, gotta check out the latest video from Shazza!

Updated Pics

2010-12-27T15:52:00.005-06:00

Here are some pics of the reinforcements I have been doing...

Progress!

2010-12-13T10:17:00.003-06:00

Ok, I'm back at it for real now.

Here's what I'm working on...

The Bulb

This is my second attempt to create the male plug for the bulb. I have cut the Styrofoam and glued it together into 2 pieces. (I think it will be easier to fair in 2 pieces, at least initially.)

Here is a pic from this weekend (FYI I have taken off the last 3" and re-done it, the patterns when cut out just didnt seem to work)

I have done much fairing since this image and will try and grab another one tonight.

Bits and Pieces and Pieces

This has been, and continues to be, a very time consuming project. Measuring, cutting, shaping, fitting, laminating, tabbing, etc. all the little pieces in place for support, etc. is taking forever.

I am probably over doing the supports, but this is my first build (EVER) and I am nervous. I think I have a plan in place and some better tools (which make all the difference in the world!)

I need to take an entire day and just mix epoxy, laminate and tab. Sweaty dirty work since I have to wear the tyvek suit so the epoxy doesnt burn my arms (i have developed a real sensitivity to it)

More pics coming soon!

Bulb

2010-04-21T08:00:00.001-05:00

I'm going to retry to reform the keep bulb. My first attempt looked good, but just wasn't what I needed. Hopefully start that tonight after the munchkins go to bed.

Update Pics

2010-04-15T10:10:00.009-05:00

Ok, here are some update pics...

First, the sheer clamp and gunwale..

Aft cockpit stringers and deck supports (port is 1/2 way in and starboard is just dry fitted)

And here is what I added last night, kind of a test...stringer made of 2 laminated, 1" wide pieces of 1/4" okume on the inside of the hull, starboard side between frames and ...

(looking down, fore is to the right; just filled the void with thickened epoxy, held it in place with brad nails and duct tape; will fillet and tape it in place???)

(looking straight on)

Seems VERY stiff, but I think I am going fillet and add tape. Thoughts?

FINALLY!

2010-04-01T09:40:00.002-05:00

The sheer clamps are all laminated in place!!!!!

I also laminated the forward section of the gunwale in place on the port side. Looks like I will have to do a little filling as in some places there was a little gap between the hull panel and the gunwale. I should have planed the sheer clamp down a little more. I will remember to do it on the starboard side.

I also am ready to install the aft most stringer/bunk supports. More on this later.

Pics to follow!

Sheer Clamps..The Year Long Project

2010-03-30T13:13:00.003-05:00

Ok, so I haven't actually been WORKING on them for a year, but it SURE AS HELL FEELS LIKE IT!!!

I laminated the starboard sheer clamp section this weekend and will be installing it tonight along with the port gunwale.

I will also be working on some stringers and internal supports.

In the days that follow will be installing the port gunwale and then dry fitting the deck.

In case you dont remember by gunwale concept, its quite simple and should work perfectly! See here: http://i550peregrine.blogspot.com/2008/09/gunwale-solution.html

Thanks to KMAC, PRoss, TFORD and TReiter I will also be strengthening the area around my compression post as I rework my cabin concept...more to follow on that.

I also FINALLY ordered the fairing boards (really hard to find locally) and should have them in a week or so to finish off the pre-fairing on the keel before I glass it.

Im SOOO glad to be back working on her! It is good for the soul!

Stay tuned!

TexLex

I'M BACK!

2010-01-12T16:00:00.001-06:00

Ok, it has been FOREVER since I have done ANYTHING on the Bird..

NOW, she has a new roost and is ready to get building!

I will take pics of her in her new home and we will get fired up this weekend!

All you other i550 builders out there, GREAT work! I will be catching up!!!

30' Mast + 16' Discovery = ?????

2009-04-13T14:45:00.003-05:00

This is the (slightly shortened) Etchells mast that was donated for the i550. Thanks Bens!

Changes

2009-04-01T13:13:00.001-05:00

Ok, so I have the house moved and I am setting up the shelter in the backyard to get back to work on Peregrine. Putting the boat on a trailer to move it was a trip. It is so damn light. I am not sure I am going to make 800# minimum without all the composite materials. 3 guys moved it with ease!

Seeing the boat on the trailer was odd. I will post pics later.

Friend of mine is donating an Etchells mast. Should work well.

More later.

Progress Continues!

2009-03-01T21:22:00.000-06:00

Now that I'm feeling rushed for the move, I've been getting lots done.

I've been busy cutting and dry fitting supports and stringers.
Any suggestions on how to mount the longitudinal stringers on the more vertical faces? I'm thinking little nails underneath to support the stringers (3/4" wide strips of 1/4" ply mounted perpendicular to the hull)?

I have also been dry fitting the trim pieces for the sheer clamp transition. This is gonna work out great. Ill post some pics.

I have also been dry fitting the cabin top. I am going to shorten the cabin from terminating at frame 53.5 to terminating 1/2 way between 53.5 and 89.5.

All of you i550 followers have no doubt been seeing all this b.s. that has been going on. I will post my opinion on the changes that have been made/suggested soon, but what I can say now is that someone making changes without consulting other owners is complete crap. Tim has done a great job w the boat, but it is not his to dictate the direction of the class. That is for the class as a group to decide.

Anyway, laminating the starboard sheer clamp tonight. Hope to get it installed by tuesday.

Port Sheer Clamp On!!!

2009-02-27T10:15:00.003-06:00

I AM making progress. I laminated the port sheer clamp on last night. Removed the screws this am and it appears to be a solid attachment. I was a little concerned that due to the curving and twisting of the dimensional stock, it would be difficult to affix. Seems to be working out well (knock on Okoume).

I left the clamps on today, just to make sure. It shoudl get up to mid 80's, so it should be nicely cured.

Big Landmark Passed!

2009-02-26T09:22:00.003-06:00

I FINALLY finished tabbing in the bulkheads. I know, I know, I am WAY behind the others who started with me (and even behind some of the others who started much later than me), but I am there!!!

My plan is to continue to fashion and install the sheer clamps (port should be on tonight) and begin working on the stringers and bunk supports.

I am moving (in town) some time in the next few weeks, so I will need to get the boat ready for that. I will be setting-up shop in the back yard.

I plan on flipping the boat, taping the outer seam and moulding some strips of GRP for a cradle. Then flipping her back over to move her.

I SHOULD be ready to install bunks, etc. within a month.

I will follow-up with picks when I can. I have been mainly working at night and the tent is not well lit, so pics dont come out well.

Sorry!

2009-02-04T17:47:00.000-06:00

Sorry I have been quiet on here. Work, family, etc. Have taken all my boat building time! I have been in the shed this week and I hope to be making more progress soon!

Support Ryan Finn!

2008-12-03T15:28:00.003-06:00

Post Snagged from SA (sponsor info included to help the man get some ca$h!) Also check out his blog at rfor.wordpress.com. It is great and shows the day-to-day work that goes into a MiniTransat Campaign.

U.S. solo ocean racer, Ryan Finn from New Orleans, Louisiana is gearing up for the 2009 Transat 6.50, also known as the Mini Transat and will be competing on his proto Mini #252, Mryna Minkoff. After winning the 2007 Bermuda 1-2 race in the U.S. Mini Classes’ debut Ryan has been invited to compete in the famous 4,300 mile solo transatlantic race starting tentatively in La Rochelle, France this coming September making a brief pit stop in the Canary Islands or Madeira before finishing in Brazil. The specific ports will be confirmed at the Paris Boat Show this December. Ryan will be racing in the European Mini circuit this coming spring and summer to train and complete his qualifying requirements. Sailing 360o Sponsorships, S360S located in Baltimore, Maryland has announced that Columbia Sportswear Company will outfit Ryan with apparel and equipment for his upcoming 2009 Mini Transat 6.50 Campaign.

Columbia Sportswear Company, headquartered in Portland, Oregon designs and makes a variety of outdoor apparel, footwear and equipment. Columbia’s layers of apparel including outer shells will be tested to the extreme limits throughout the Transat 6.50 as Ryan faces a multitude of wind, waves, temperatures and weather systems, while hand steering his 6.50 meter Mini across the Atlantic Ocean in one of the world’s most challenging races. Columbia’s Titanium premium performance products are built for high-energy outdoor activities. Titanium apparel, footwear and equipment contains Columbia’s most advanced technologies for comfort and protection with an athletic fit for intense outdoor activities like the Transat 6.50. Columbia clothing is light weight, compact, water resistant, with moisture wicking base layers, providing several UV sun protection options while racing.
A complete listing of Ryan’s current race partners are available at www.ryanfinnoceanracing.com, which includes information about the America’s Wetland Campaign and Ryan’s involvement to bring further visibility to help sustain America’s wetlands along the Louisiana coast.

More Goo

2008-12-03T08:42:00.003-06:00

After leaving the keel inside the house for about 36 hours, I thought the fairing compound would have cured. Not so. It looked good, didnt appear sticky, but when I went to sand it came of on the longboard in a gooey sticky mess.

I put the keel in my bedroom (warmest room in the house) to let it cure overnight.

Goo

2008-12-02T09:44:00.003-06:00

Well, I tried to apply a coat of fairing compound on the other side of the keel (already done one) and due to the fact it was around 45 deg, the epoxy/filler fairing compound was just a sticky mess after 12 hours.

Looks like I need a little space heater for the shop.

Back to Work!

2008-12-01T17:39:00.003-06:00

After seeing all the progress the other i550 builders have made, it made me realize I needed to get my ass back to work!

So here, what I have been working on:

1. Fairing the keel
2. Filleting and Taping (No! I'm not done with that YET!)
3. Installing supports between bulkheads
4. Building a fairing board
5. Engineering an articulating bow sprit system (abandoning the bow mounted
track I previously suggested)
6. Preparing to install Stbd sheer clamp.

Keel:

More Room

2008-12-01T17:33:00.006-06:00

I went to PepBoys and got a $200 auto shelter (quite well made actually) and moved the boat into it.

Ironically, once I moved the boat out and set-up my shop in the garage, turns out there is STILL no room to store boxes. (Plenty of room for the table saw (thanks Bens!) and the work/wetting out table!)

2008-11-04T10:53:00.000-06:00

Here's the dry biaxial basalt sleeve on the mandrel:

Needed a helper to get it on the mandrel:

Here it is wetted out. It was hard to see where it had been covered with the epoxy. It changed from a dark green to a black. I wetted it out with a 3" roller.

Here's the uniaxial carbon fiber after it had cured:

Here it is with the mandrel pulled out. I thought it was going to be impossible, but once I got it loose, it slid right out. That layer of plastic wrap worked great.

Layup:

2 layers basalt biax
1 layer carbon uni

I think I am going to add an additional layer of the carbon uni, just to make sure.

I will try and weight it this week, but I can tell you its DAMN light!

Carbon Fiber Cloth

2008-10-27T14:52:00.002-05:00

I received the carbon fiber cloth for the keel reinforcement from sollercomposites.com.

Just thought, I'd share.

Compression Post

2008-10-27T09:23:00.003-05:00

As mentioned previously, I'm using the compression post as my first foray into the world of building composite poles and tubes.

Here are a few pics of my helper getting the basalt sleeve on the pvc mandrel.

Here is a close-up of the weave pre-epoxy

Here is a copy post-epoxy. In low light, its hard to tell where the epoxy has sufficiently saturated the sleeve. The difference is it changes from a dark green to a black. (the top 1/2 of the tube in this pic has a wrap of plastic over it)

I put two basalt sleeves on and I will add a uniaxial CF and a biaxial CF sleeve on top. All-in-all it may not be significantly lighter than an aluminum post, but I wanted to take a shot at it.

It was very difficult to get the weave lined up straight, as you can see, I definitely didn't get it perfect.

Keel's On Its Way!

2008-10-19T21:45:00.000-05:00

Ill post a few final pics from John tomorrow.

Damn Sexy Keel

2008-10-13T21:07:00.002-05:00

Updates from John.

Keel

2008-10-06T07:12:00.003-05:00

Ok, so I am wussing out on one aspect of the boat. I am not building the keel core. This is one area that I have less than zero confidence in (of course I thought that about the whole boat when I began) and I thought I would let a professional do this for me.

I am having John Owens at JO Woodworks (903-894-6293; www.jowoodworks.com; john@jowoodworks.com) laminate and shape the keel for me.

It looks pretty go so far! I cant wait to get her in my hands.

John has been building daggerboards and rudders for dingies for a while, and while this is a new project, he has been great to work with and looks like its going to be a beaut! He obviously as some serious skill working with wood, something I do not!

New Peregrine Hull Design

2008-09-24T09:20:00.005-05:00

After continuing to read more and more about the problems with "telegraphing" on a dark hull, I have decided against a blue hull for Peregrine.

I have not decided what to go with. I may post a few on here and let everyone vote on what they like. (I'm going to go with what I want, but I would like to know what everyone else thinks.)

Here's one option?

Another?(although I may have the same telegraphing problem with red)

Maybe this?

Thoughts?

In case you cant tell, this is the image on the side of the hull:

I borrowed the basic idea of the image and made it a little sharper and more aggressive.

EDIT: One more...

On with the show.

2008-09-17T11:17:00.003-05:00

Well, Ike has done a number on the area, but it has given me some time to work on the boat. I have filleted and taped a few more seams. I hope to have this project completed in the next 2 weeks. I know it has been dragging on, but I have been swamped at work and at home.

Today I was up early in the cool air, ready to fillet and tape, but I ran out of epoxy. Damn it. Since the local West Marine is still closed, I had to change gears. So, I started getting ready to build the bowsprit and compression post. I am going to follow Chris's lead and build it myself.

Yesterday, I went to http://www.sollercomposites.com/ and bought:

1. 10' long, 2" carbon fiber biaxial sleeve (7.5 oz, aerospace grade);
2. 10' long, 1-2.75" carbon fiber unidirectional sleeve;
3. 10' long, 2" 100% Basalt Biaxial Sleeves (they claim it is 40% Stronger,
Cheaper, Softer, & Higher Temperature (1800 degrees F) than Fiberglass); and,
4. 10' long, 2" heat shrink tubing (I later found out this was too small and
have ordered the larger one)

All-in-all it will cost me about $150-175 in materials for both compression post and bowsprit (less than $150 for materials and shipping from Solar). That's a hell of a deal for 10' of carbon poles! Retail that would probably be close to $1000.

For more info on building the poles, you can check out their information page here.

I am planning on using a layer of basalt, then a layer of carbon uni and carbon biax (not sure the order the carbon sleeves, if anyone has any advice, let me know).

Today I went and bought a 10' length of 2" pvc to use as a mandrel. I'm going to wrap the pole in plastic wrap and coat it in something slippery before I put the basalt sleeve on.

I will keep you updated on the poles as well.

Gunwale Solution

2008-09-16T12:36:00.008-05:00

As promised, here is my version of the gunwale solution...

I am going to take a piece of oak wall and trim base shoe (7/16" x 3/4", product #wm127) that I bought from Home Depot for $.68/ft. and add it on top of the sheer clamp which I cut and laminated 2 pieces from 1/4", 4x8 okume marine ply.

MORE..

As you can see, it will take a little bit of building up from the bulkheads so the deck will be level with the gunwale.

It's not been laminated in place yet, just dry fit to see if it will work. I will probably have to plane a little off the top of the trim to lower the height (so I wont have to build up the deck so much), but it looks like it will still provide a nice fair curve from the hull to the deck.

Thoughts? Comments? Am I missing something obvious why this won't work??

Sam, Katy, Drew and Third Coast Composites

2008-09-15T14:16:00.003-05:00

On a more serious note, just thought I would ask everyone to say a little prayer for Sam, Katy, Drew and Third Coast Composites. Sam is a friend who is building a Dix Mini in his garage on Clear Lake (http://www.mini-sailor.us/). He also recently started Third Coast Composites and they are building production Minis here in South Texas (http://www.thirdcoastcomposites.com/). Quite an exciting endeavor!

As you know, Clear Lake took quite a hit. I haven't been able to get in touch with Sam, but he is a smart bird and an old salt, no doubt he is fine, just hope they and their projects are alright.

Sam is the one who got me into building (whether he knows it or not) after seeing his Mini.

Hope all is well.

EDIT: Just talked to Sam and he and his Dix mini and the shop are fine. He said Drew and Katy probably got some water in their place, but I am not sure they have had a chance to check it out yet.

My thoughts and prayers are with all sailors (and everyone) on the coast who are recovering from Ike.

The Bird is Safe, and so am I

2008-09-15T14:14:00.007-05:00

Well, we have no power, there are trees down all over the place, but me and the Bird made it through unscathed.

My Schock Santata 3030 on Clear Lake made it through, or so I've been told. Friends said the marina where she was is trashed, many boats lost, but mine is floating fine. Sometimes I'd rather be lucky than good.

EDIT: Here's evidence of being DAMN lucky. The boat "Bandipur" was immediately to the East of mine, now it is in a parking lot.

Here's dingo (white with blue fenders on left).. sitting as normal as can be amid the chaos. There used to be a dock running directly in front of her, where the pilings are.

Photo credits to "fossilmike" on Flickr.

In fact, there is a little blessing in this in that work is closed through Wed., wife and kids are out of town, so.... I have some time to work on her!!

Cold front blew through behind Ike and brought temps down from 95+ to sub-80s with low humidity! Nice working weather.

The Bird is in Her Roost--Take a Hike Ike

2008-09-12T20:55:00.002-05:00

She's battened down for Ike. Hopefully she (and we) will make it without injury.

I know I owe KMAC (and whoever else is watching) more info on the gunwales, I will HOPEFULLY get to it this week. (Of course I gotta go check on the 3030 tomorrow too!)

Gunwale Solution!

2008-08-22T13:39:00.001-05:00

Kevin Posted:

Looking to see what you are doing with the sheer clamp / rounded gunwale. I've not heard anyone speak up and say that my plan won't work.

I have the answer! It is simple, clean, cheap and results in a perfect gunwale.

Wanna know what it is?????

Stay tuned!!

Happy Freakin Birthday Part 2

2008-08-01T11:55:00.003-05:00

Well, I did get to sneak out a little early and get back to work on the boat.

I filleted and taped the last part of the centerline seam which extends 18" aft of frame 53.5 and filleted and taped the filleted the inside of the chine on the port side between frames 89 and 53.5.

I also began cutting strips for the sheer clamp. I cut 2.5" strips of the 8' x 16', 1/4 ply and laminated 2 strips together, staggered by about 2".

I think the 2.5" strips will work as I am not planing on having a big radius on the gunwales.

Hopefully this lamination worked well, I will see this afternoon.

This afternoon I will go and laminated the staggered ends to 2 more pieces and double the length to 16'.

Pics are in the camera! (camera is at home :( ) I will post them soon.

Happy Freakin Birthday to Me!

2008-07-31T13:29:00.003-05:00

Well, today is my birthday (just send cash please) and I had a great day of workin' on tha bird planned.

BUT, unfortunately, work decided to raise its ugly head and so now I am sitting in my office on a conference call (shhh, don't tell) instead of working on Peregrine.

I DID, however, get a few hours this am to work. I made a circle cutting jig for the router; filleted the inside of the chine on the starboard side between frames 89 and 53.5; and filleted and taped in inside of the seam running down the center from frame 89 to frame 53.5.

HOPEFULLY, I can sneak out of here soon and back to the girl.

I'll keep you updated and add some pics.

EDIT: As promised:

UNforgiving Fiberglass

2008-07-08T15:39:00.005-05:00

"What the boatbulding gods giveth, the boat building gods taketh away."-Me

Well, taping the seams was not as easy as I thought it would be. Just as with everything else on this project, I am learning as I go.

This is what happens when your weted tape doesn't stick to the set fillets:

No matter what I did, I couldn't get the tape to stick to the fillets and the hull. And those damn little fibers that run through the tape kept wrapping around my finger like it was their mama! I couldn't get them off! Everytime I thought I had the tape in place I would pull my hands back and either the tape would stick to it or one of those damn little fibers would have wrapped around my finger 7 or 8 times and the whole thing would pull away!

Next time, I'm going to use KMAC's suggesting of applying the tape to still soft fillets.

I wont even being to talk about (or show you pictures of) what the exposure to epoxy is doing to my arms! Let's just say I will be wearing double gloves and long sleeve shirts from now on! (even though it is 110+ degrees in the shed!) Let's just say it lasts for weeks!

Big Picture

2008-06-18T14:23:00.004-05:00

Ok, here is a look at the big picture progress of the boat. Overall, I am very pleased with the way the project is progressing.

One thing I do need to correct is the stem. As you can see, I need to fill the seams where the hull panels meet the stem on the starboard side.

As you can see I have done this on the port side and it seems to be an easy fix.

Forgiving Glass Tape

2008-06-18T14:10:00.005-05:00

My first attempts at scarfing the larger sheets of ply together were, I believe, a little light on the epoxy. I had always read it is important to not use too much and that sometimes the bi-axial glass tape appears "dry" even when sufficiently saturated with epoxy.

This was after-all my first attempt at working with this medium.

As you can see, sections of my scarfs appeared TOO dry as if there had been no epoxy application (which I assure you there had been).

Part of this I attribute to the composition of the biaxial glass tape I was using; it is 2 layers thick and doesn't saturate as easily as single-ply, single-axis fiberglass. This has been confirmed by Tim at Watershed Boats. (Edit: I will try and take a picture of the tape and post it on here.)

I found, however, that glass tape is forgiving and when I applied the thin epoxy layer to the outside panel of the hull, it soaked right in and appeared more transparent, the way it should.

While I am sure this is not the preferred method of wetting out glass tape (I am sure there are some scientific reasons why this is a bad idea), I don't think it will significantly affect my situation as this joint is reinforced on the inside of the hull with another strip of glass tape and will be reinforced by a covering of fiberglass over the entire hull.

Fillets

2008-06-18T13:54:00.007-05:00

Ok, this is obviously the work of a first-timer. Actually, this is my SECOND attempt at these fillets. The first attempt was such a disaster I had to abort and start over.

This is what I learned from my first attempt:

1. DONT use fast hardener when it is 100 degrees out. It kicks so fast I didnt even have time to mix in the silica.
2. IF you are going to try to use the "pastry bag" method of application, get a thicker bag (or two) as it gets SO hot you cant even hold it.
3. OVER THICKENING the epoxy is better than under-thickening as when the mix starts to kick, the increased temperature decreases the viscosity of the mix, causing dripping and running.

Here's what I came out with on attempt 2:

Looking forward from frame 0018 to frame 0000:

Looking aft from frame 0000 to frame 0018:

Looking forward through frame 0018 to frame 0000:

Looking aft at frame 0018 on port side:

OBVIOUSLY, there is much sanding that needs to be done. and HOPEFULLY, future attempts will be a little more efficeint (less collateral damage!)

Note on pics above: the bumps you see above, and in this series are not my inartful fillet technique (as far as you know) it is the zip ties protruding from underneath the fillet. I intended to sand/cut these down to provide a continuous surface for the to glass tape to adhere to. I might also try KMAC's technique of allowing the fillets to harden, but not completely cure, and immediately applying the glass tape. It seems to me that this might require more coordination than I am currently capable of.

I promise I have been working on her!

2008-06-18T12:52:00.002-05:00

I know it has been almost a month since my last post, but who the hell is reading this anyway? (Except for you KMAC, thanks for the link love! You can look to the right to see the link to KMAC's i550 build.)

I have been out of town some, but I HAVE been working on Peregrine.

Here's the update:

1. Began filleting the seams at the bow, working aft. I will post more on this in a bit, but it is not as easy as it looks, especially when it is 100 degrees outside, you are working in tight angles and you are developing an allergy to either the epoxy or the Colloidal Silica I'm using to thicken the epoxy, this results in VERY itchy arms up to my elbows. Long sleeves from now on for me!

2. Been working on where to add stringers and supports.

3. Been working on how to add structure to the gunwales so they can take a nice radius.

More to follow.

Frame Instalation

2008-05-22T15:21:00.005-05:00

I decided to install the frames before I applied the fillets (pronounced fill-it) as I believe it will add structural stability and, if installed correctly (THIS is not a trivial point), will prevent twisting of the frame until I get the fillets in. We will see. As of now I have installed frame 000 (stem), frame 018 and frame 053.5. Things appear to be going relatively well. A few issues have arisen:

Problem #1: After the stem has been installed I noticed the port hull panel is about an 1/8-1/4 of an inch farther forward than the stbd hull panel. This is hard to figure out as, at the stern, the panels are even. I believe this may be due to a small gap 1/8 in the scarfing of the forward stbd hull panel section to the middle stb hull panel section, which was not discovered until the epoxy had fully cured. Yes, the ripple effect is DEFINITELY present in boat building. Just hope it does not result in chaos at the end!

Problem #2: After frame 018 and frame 053.5 were installed I noticed the stbd side of the frame projected slightly above the lip of the hull panel. This extrusion is not severe; panel 018 extends maybe 1/16 of an inch and 053.5 maybe 1/8-1/4 of an inch. Again, as with problem #1, at the stern, the panels join perfectly with the frame 214 (the stern).

Corresponded with Tim and he mentioned it was probably due to the panel being misaligned with the hull bottom and that I should raise the hull panel in orientation to the hull bottom, i.e., make the hull panel and the bottom panel join on at interior corners. I will check this out when I get home tonight and see if this is the problem (and not problem #1 mentioned above!)

It looks like a boat!

2008-05-19T09:52:00.005-05:00

Able to spend some time on the i550 this weekend and made some serious progress! Stitched the hull panels on Fri night, laminated and stitched the stern on Sat., and epoxied the stem on Sun!

The next step is to make sure everything is in line and then fillet the seams.

I took some preliminary measurements to see how it looks and I'm pretty happy with the results! Stem is perfectly level and right on the centerline, and frame 018 is level.

(out of the shed)

I will try to go tonight and set-up a string jig to measure the distances from center to each side. This will be a good indicator of how the boat is balanced.

Good Help is Hard to Find

2008-05-14T13:56:00.002-05:00

The Evolution ..... and DEvolution of Peregrine

2008-05-12T14:03:00.003-05:00

Man, was I making progress! Stitching the hull together, lookin good! I had the stbd hull on and getting ready to add the por........ uh oh.

Turns out it is kinda important to scarf the whole stbd and port hull sections together BEFORE I stitch them to the hull bottom. Dumb ass.

Ok, so I took it all down and scarfed the pieces together.

SO, I will do it all over again. This time it will be the right way (I hope).

Scarfing

2008-05-08T14:41:00.002-05:00

I began scarfing the hull pieces last night. Will continue tonight. Hopefully start stitching the hull together this weekend!

Pics to follow.

The Kit is Here!!!

2008-05-06T12:36:00.003-05:00

Ok, for all of you who were wondering, YES, you can fit an i550 kit in a Discovery! (with one sheet of 8 x 4 on the top).

(Sorry for the bad pic- ac to humidity change will do that)

I was all excited about starting the build. I loaded all the pieces into the garage and was ready to get to work. One small problem, NO RUBBER GLOVES. Damn.

So I laid out all the pieces, made sure I had them, and I am ready to scarf the long pieces together.

Should have some significant progress by this time next week.

No Kit Yet; Progress on the Bulb!

2008-05-05T11:07:00.006-05:00

Ok, so the kit was supposed to be here on Fri, but it didn't show. Called the shipper and they said it would be here Monday. Damn.

SO, I took the opportunity to work on the bulb.

Printed out the profile and blew it up on the copier until it was actual size.

Cut the forms out and traced each on some 1/2" foam board and cut out with box cutter. Then, cut notches in each piece and inserted a string as a jig to line-up the pieces.

I will now go in and fill the gaps and fair the foam.

More on the i550

2008-04-21T10:06:00.010-05:00

Here is a little more info on the i550...

The i550 is a home buildable, performance sportboat constructed using the "stich-and-glue" method. This method ensures a light, solid hull, and a quick build for even those with NO boat building experience.

The original i550 was created for the MicroTon class, and has since been upgraded and redrawn as a one-off sportboat for fleet racing.

It has a retractable, bulbed keel which gives it stability and righting moment while allowing the boat to keep dinghy like performance.

Specs

Length - 18’ 5.5m
Beam - 8’ 2.45m
Draft - 5’ 1.55m
Disp, - 775lbs 350kg
Keel weight - 165lbs 75kg
Sail Area up - 236’sq. 22m/sq.
down - 592’sq. 55m/sq.
Crew - 3
Designer - Christopher Beckwith

*All pics are of TTB the first i550 built. (http://tokyotrashbaby86.tripod.com/index.html)

Progress!

2008-04-21T08:54:00.008-05:00

As promised (to myself, even if no one else is reading this) I began working on the frame/dolly. It went well if I do say so myself!

Here you can see the beginning of the frame barely fitting in the shed.

Here you can see the casters I mounted to the underside to allow the whole project to be wheeled out around, etc., to help with access without compromising the structure.

And here are some of the pieces of the boat ready to go!

Peregrine Preview

2008-04-18T10:28:00.011-05:00

Here is a rough mock-up of what Peregrine will look like when finished. I have always loved "flag blue" as a color for a ship's hull. I think I might go a little deeper for this one.

I am roughly modeling the hull color scheme after the Cross Current 33 (see below) I might even go so far as to put stripes on the topsides mimicking teak planking.

I know this is a completely different beast, but just cause she is fast and dirty doesnt mean she can't look smooth and sexy too.

i550 Named!

2008-04-17T16:52:00.010-05:00

In the delirious early morning hours I have decided to name the boat Peregrine. Fastest bird in the world, I figured this is appropriate since this boat will fly!

The Peregrine Falcon is often stated to be the fastest animal on the planet in its hunting dive, the stoop, which involves soaring to a great height and then diving steeply at speeds of over 322 km/h (200 mph) hitting one wing of its prey, so as not to harm itself on impact.[14] A study testing the flight physics of an 'ideal falcon' found a theoretical speed limit at 400 km/h (250 mph) for low altitude flight and 625 km/h (390 mph) for high altitude flight.[49] Despite these theoretical values, measurements of real stoops by using radar resulted in maximum diving speeds of only 140 km/h (87 mph). (Facts courtesy wikipedia.org)

Building the Frame/Dolly

2008-04-15T09:38:00.001-05:00

I have purchased 22 sections of the cheapest 2x4s I could find and I am going to build a frame for the build to sit on. I will put vertical sections of ply, each cut to fit the shape of the hull, at 3-4 places along the bottom of the hull. I will cover the top of the ply with pipe insulation slit at the bottom to provide a little cushioning.

I am also going to put casters on the frame to allow it to be rolled in and out of the shop.

Hopefully, this will be accomplished this weekend and I will receive the kit next weekend.

I also am planing on going to Houston Hardwoods (houstonhardwoods.com) to buy the remaining 7 sheets of Meranti ply. If all goes well, I intend to butt-join the sheets together and begin lofting the hull shape.

Kit Update

2008-03-31T12:45:00.003-05:00

I purchased a (partial) kit from Tim at Watershed Boats in CO. He recently reported the delivery date will be 20th of April. I need to get the shed in order by then. Right now it is filled with garage and kids' stuff from the move.

I am planning on building a frame for the build when I get back from vacation. (After I do the Heald Bank double-hand that is.) I figured a frame of 2x4s and ply covered in foam pipe insulation as support should be sufficient.

I also am trying to figure out how to do the foils. I have been in contact with a guy here in Texas about cutting the foils out of foam, but I am not sure if the foam is structurally sufficient. I also have some oak I will probably try to shape a rudder to see how that goes.

New Digs

2008-03-19T14:26:00.000-05:00

Tomorrow I will move to a new house in the Heights and begin my build anew. I will have my own little shed as a workshop.